This is a lot of stuff that might not be important to you, but I like to be thorough. If you don’t want to read through all the options, the stock build is as follows: Volume, Bass, and Gain controls and mechanical true bypass in a 1590B. Base price is $125 plus actual shipping. Demo here (gain range is increased in the current version).
Payment is due upon completion of the pedal to your specifications. As soon as we have worked out any details, put an X here:
___ Ready to build
Please tell me what kind of guitar/pickups you use.
Just put a little X next to what you want and fill in the blacks if needed. Please read the returns policy before selecting any mods that will physically alter the enclosure.
___ 1590B (stock — this is a “regular” sized case, like MXR pedals)
___ 1590BB (for big feet!)
I only keep the 1590B in stock for this effect.
Base color: Basic enclosure colors come from Smallbear and are included in the pedal’s cost. The stock art uses a white background. If you want a different base color, Pedal Parts Plus has lots of options, but there will be an upcharge in the actual cost difference. The stock art uses … well, to be honest, it doesn’t matter too much since there’s so much paint, but probably some sort of yellow.
I find that I can get pretty much any useful sound I want from the fuzz with only the three stock controls. However, the are some other things that can be changed.
___ Treble cut control (add $5 for the knob and pot). Normally the pedal is hardwired to have a slight treble cut to smooth out the distortion post-clipping. It’s not too hard to make it a knob, but I don’t personally find it terribly useful.
___ Clipping Toggle (add $5). I can add a switch to introduce two extra modes: One for more distortion and the other for less. Normally the pedal is entirely asymmetrical MOSFET/silicon clipping; one mode would make the softclipping germanium/silicon, and another mode would make the softclipping two MOSFETs and lift the hard clipping at the end of the pedal, making the pedal more of an overdrive. This does expand the range of the pedal somewhat, but I think the stock setting will still be the most useful by far, because the pedal was tuned to sound best with the MOSFET clipping.
__ True mechanical bypass. I’m using alpha switches for these now, which seem to be a little nicer than the blue switches, but this is the same type of mechanical bypass most people are familiar with.
__ Optical bypass (add $5). This is a good bypass option if you often have trouble with switch pops in true bypass pedals. Although I take every precaution with the true bypass, the simple truth is that with some gear, a pop might still be audible, because true bypass can never be perfect. Optical bypass also uses a really nice quieter alpha switch and an opto-FET chip. The result is a “nearly true bypass” with no effect bleedthrough or guitar loading in bypass, and no switch pops.
__ Millennium II bypass — This is a true bypass scheme that uses the softer Alpha switch that’s in the optical bypass. It’s an active bypass for lighting the LED, but the signal is still fully bypassed.
If you’ve thought of something that you can’t imagine your Mossy Sloth being complete without, ask — it might be possible. But I’m kinda partial to the stock build!