This is a lot of stuff that might not be important to you, but I like to be thorough. If you don’t want to read through all the options, the stock build is as follows: Rate, depth, waveform, and volume controls external; switch for tremolo, harmonic, and “bright” modes; the rate indicator LED is also wired as the indicator; and optical bypass. Base price is $150 plus actual shipping. Demo here.
Payment is due upon completion of the pedal to your specifications. As soon as we have worked out any details, put an X here:
___ Ready to build
Please tell me what kind of guitar/pickups you use.
Just put a little X next to what you want and fill in the blacks if needed. Please read the returns policy before selecting any mods that will physically alter the enclosure.
___ 1590B (stock — this is a “regular” sized case, like MXR pedals)
___ 125B (slightly larger)
___ 1590BB (add $5) — for people with huge feet 🙂
Base color: Basic enclosure colors come from Smallbear and are included in the pedal’s cost. The stock art uses a red background. If you want a different base color, Pedal Parts Plus has lots of options, but there will be an upcharge in the actual cost difference. The original color was Galaxy Red.
___ standard art (with the cardinal silhouette and metallic paints on Galaxy Red)
___ custom art depicting ________________.
Custom art is always free.
Rate indicator LED
___ Wired as the bypass indicator (only blinks when the pedal is turned on — only one LED) — Stock.
___ One LED is always on and blinks in time with the rate, another is the bypass indicator (and does not blink in time with the rate).
A 1590B has room for four pots and a toggle, or three pots and a rotary switch. If you want more than four pots and a switch controls, you probably should choose a larger enclosure.
___ Waveform (stock; highly recommended)
___ External volume (stock; highly recommended on Version 2)
___ Symmetry control (knob or switch; please add $5 for the extra parts): This offsets the wave shape, creating sawtooth or ramping effects. It can also be a switch that simply sets the ramping direction (ramp up, no ramp, or ramp down).
Other controls may be possible (go ahead and ask), but Rate, Depth, Waveform, and Volume are by far the most useful.
The three-mode switch (harmonic, bright, and normal) is standard on all builds. Vibe mode is no longer available on Version 2 … it just doesn’t sound the same. 😦
__ Optical bypass (stock, and recommended) —This is a good bypass option if you often have trouble with switch pops in true bypass pedals. Although I take every precaution with the true bypass, the simple truth is that with some gear, a pop might still be audible, because true bypass can never be perfect. Optical bypass also uses a really nice quieter alpha switch and an opto-FET chip. The result is a “nearly true bypass” with no effect bleedthrough or guitar loading in bypass, and no switch pops.
__ True mechanical bypass — I’m using alpha switches for these now, which seem to be a little nicer than the blue switches, but this is the same type of mechanical bypass most people are familiar with.
__ Millennium II bypass — This is a true bypass scheme that uses the softer Alpha switch that’s in the optical bypass. It’s an active bypass for lighting the LED, but the signal is still fully bypassed.
__ “Amp” bypass — Okay, this is a very unusual one, but it’s neat. The depth control can be severed from the oscillator, leaving the dry path “on” when the tremolo effect is bypassed. Why on earth would you do this? Well, the pedal has some aspects of an amp simulator, and, with a slightly different internal setup or with a boost in front of it, the Cardinal can become an overdrive or be used as a slightly dirty preamp/boost without creating an alteration in the volume level when the tremolo is switched on and off.
If you’ve thought of something that you can’t imagine your Cardinal being complete without, ask — it might be possible. But I’m kinda partial to the stock build!