This is a lot of stuff that might not be important to you, but I like to be thorough. If you don’t want to read through all the options, the stock build is as follows: Two stages in a 1590B, Rate, depth, and sensitivity external; tremolo mode included; the rate indicator LED is also wired as the indicator; and true bypass. Base price is $140 plus actual shipping. Demo (single stage) here.
Payment is due upon completion of the pedal to your specifications. As soon as we have worked out any details, put an X here:
___ Ready to build
Please tell me what kind of guitar/pickups you use.
Just put a little X next to what you want and fill in the blacks if needed. Please read the returns policy before selecting any mods that will physically alter the enclosure.
___ Two-stage (stock, 1590B or larger only)
___ Single-stage (for 1590As or if you want the older version)
What’s this about stages? Phasers — which include vibes — use a number of stages to create their effect. The original Blue Warbler was a single stage, but I recently added another phasing stage, in part to ensure consistency but also to allow for a more intense effect and help out the tremolo mode without as much tinkering with each individual build. If you aren’t sure which to get, I suggest just getting the two-stage. If you want a mini pedal, you’ll have to go with the single stage, as I couldn’t fit the additional parts on a layout small enough for a 1590A. If you are certain you only want a mild effect like what you hear in the demo, the single stage will be fine. The difference between them isn’t night and day; the two-stage just has a little extra oomph. The cost is the same.
___ 1590B (stock — this is a “regular” sized case, like MXR pedals)
___ 1590A (mini case) — The single-stage version of the circuit fits in a mini case (yay!).
___ 1590BB (add $5) — for people with huge feet 🙂
I only keep the 1590B anodized blue in stock for this effect.
Base color: Basic enclosure colors come from Smallbear and are included in the pedal’s cost. The stock art uses a blue background. If you want a different base color (e.g. the anodized blue on my older builds), Pedal Parts Plus has lots of options, but there will be an upcharge in the actual cost difference.
You can choose between the “stock” art, which is the birds in trees against an anodized blue background (like on my prototype unit), or you can specify a design of your choosing (please check my web site to get a feel for what I’m capable of).
___ Default art
___ Custom art. Description: ____________________________
Custom art is always free.
Rate indicator LED
___ Wired as the bypass indicator (only blinks when the pedal is turned on — only one LED) — Stock.
___ One LED is always on and blinks in time with the rate, another is the bypass indicator (and does not blink in time with the rate).
Tremolo mode options
The Blue Warbler can be built with an envelope-controlled tremolo mode. It’s a pretty cool effect that I’ve used on a recording. Some people told me they never use this mode, so I’m making it an option to leave it off and simplify the panel. It won’t replace a dedicated tremolo (like the Cardinal), and it has a few quirks, but it’s a free upgrade since it’s so easy to add.
___ Tremolo mode included (stock, but not available on 1590A builds)
___ No tremolo mode
__ True mechanical bypass (stock). I’m using alpha switches for these now, which seem to be a little nicer than the blue switches, but this is the same type of mechanical bypass most people are familiar with.
__ Optical bypass (add $5). This is a good bypass option if you often have trouble with switch pops in true bypass pedals. Although I take every precaution with the true bypass, the simple truth is that with some gear, a pop might still be audible, because true bypass can never be perfect. Optical bypass also uses a really nice quieter alpha switch and an opto-FET chip. The result is a “nearly true bypass” with no effect bleedthrough or guitar loading in bypass, and no switch pops.
__ Millennium II bypass. This is a true bypass scheme that uses the softer Alpha switch that’s in the optical bypass. It’s an active bypass for lighting the LED, but the signal is still fully bypassed. You must have a separate, always-on indicator LED with this bypass.
If you’ve thought of something that you can’t imagine your Blue Warbler being complete without, ask — it might be possible. But I’m kinda partial to the stock build!