This is a lot of stuff that might not be important to you, but I like to be thorough. If you don’t want to read through all the options, the stock build is as follows: Comp, Volume, and Hi/Lo external controls with mechanical true bypass in a 1590A. Base price is $105 plus actual shipping. Demo here.
Payment is due upon completion of the pedal to your specifications. As soon as we have worked out any details, put an X here:
___ Ready to build
Please tell me what kind of guitar/pickups you use.
Just put a little X next to what you want and fill in the blacks if needed. Please read the returns policy before selecting any mods that will physically alter the enclosure.
___ 1590A (stock — this is a mini case)
___ 1590B (this is a “regular” sized case, like MXR pedals)
I only keep the 1590A in white in stock for this effect.
Base color: Basic enclosure colors come from Smallbear and are included in the pedal’s cost. The stock art uses a white background. If you want a different base color, Pedal Parts Plus has lots of options, but there will be an upcharge in the actual cost difference.
You can have custom art if you choose (it’s free), or I can paint the cute little bear on yours as well.
__ Standard art
___ Custom art depicting _____________.
Custom art is always free.
Presence Cap: __ Bright or __ Standard.
The bright presence cap leaves in more treble and ‘sparkle’ than the standard, which produces more of a midrange focus and a warmer sound. The demo has the standard cap. I prefer the ‘Bright’ presence cap in my own builds.
__ Decay knob instead of switch (add $2): This replaces the switch for the decay setting with a potentiometer. The standard decay settings are 100ms and 470ms. With the pot, it will go from ~47ms to 470ms. I didn’t find this particularly useful (hence the switch in the stock version), but someone asked if it could be done, so what the heck, now it’s an option.
__ True Mechanical Bypass. I’m using alpha switches for these now, which seem to be a little nicer than the blue switches, but this is the same type of mechanical bypass most people are familiar with.
__ Optical bypass. This is a good bypass option if you often have trouble with switch pops in true bypass pedals. Although I take every precaution with the true bypass, the simple truth is that with some gear, a pop might still be audible, because true bypass can never be perfect. Optical bypass also uses a really nice quieter alpha switch and an opto-FET chip. The result is a “nearly true bypass” with no effect bleedthrough or guitar loading in bypass, and no switch pops.
__ Millennium II bypass — This is a true bypass scheme that uses the softer Alpha switch that’s in the optical bypass. It’s an active bypass for lighting the LED, but the signal is still fully bypassed.
If you’ve thought of something that you can’t imagine your Bearhug being complete without, ask — it might be possible. But I’m kinda partial to the stock build!