This is a lot of stuff that might not be important to you, but I like to be thorough. If you don’t want to read through all the options, the stock build is as follows: Volume, Treble, and Gain knobs; three-way (hi/no/low) compression switch; and optical bypass in a 1590B. The base price is $130 plus actual shipping. Demo here.
Payment is due upon completion of the pedal to your specifications. As soon as we have worked out any details, put an X here:
___ Ready to build
Please tell me what kind of guitar/pickups you use.
Just put a little X next to what you want and fill in the blacks if needed. Please read the returns policy before selecting any mods that will physically alter the enclosure.
___ 1590B (stock — this is a “regular” sized case, like MXR pedals)
___ 1590BB (for big feet!)
Base color: Basic enclosure colors come from Smallbear and are included in the pedal’s cost. The stock art uses a white background. If you want a different base color, Pedal Parts Plus has lots of options, but there will be an upcharge in the actual cost difference. The stock art uses … well, the prototype was red, but I’m pretty sure white is the proper color.
___ Standard art
___ Custom art depicting _____________.
Custom art is always free.
I find that I can get pretty much any sound I want from the overdrive with only the three stock controls. However, the are some things that can be added. A 1590B can fit up to four knobs and the compression toggle before things get awkward.
___ Bass control (add $5): This is a bass cut similar to what’s in the Mossy Sloth. I can put it early (affects distortion) or late (only affects tone) in the circuit, your choice.
___ Clipping switch/lift (add $5): This is a switch that would lift the MOSFET clipping and/or swap it out for either LED (a little more distortion) or silicon diode clipping (a LOT more distortion). I can do up to two different clipping options and a lift, so choose wisely if you want this! I think the gain range is already pretty wide, so I’m not sure it’s super useful (though the lift would make for a very mighty booster).
__ Optical bypass (stock – and HIGHLY recommended with this effect). This is a good bypass option if you often have trouble with switch pops in true bypass pedals. Although I take every precaution with the true bypass, the simple truth is that with some gear, a pop might still be audible, because true bypass can never be perfect. Optical bypass also uses a really nice quieter alpha switch and an opto-FET chip. The result is a “nearly true bypass” with no effect bleedthrough or guitar loading in bypass, and no switch pops.
__ True mechanical bypass. The same blue switch that everyone uses. 🙂
__ Millennium II bypass (add $5) — This is a true bypass scheme that uses the softer Alpha switch that’s in the optical bypass. It’s an active bypass for lighting the LED, but the signal is still fully bypassed. [Currently requires extra lead time, as I need to order more PCBs.]
If you’ve thought of something that you can’t imagine your Polar Bear being complete without, ask — it might be possible. But I’m kinda partial to the stock build!